Sunday, 18 November 2012
Cheap Slot Cars?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Just thought I'd share an invaluable tip that I discovered recently. You however, have probably thought of this already and may have capitalized on it also.
How many of us Slot Car junkies are looking for our favorite Slot Cars at cheap prices? Personally, I like AFX, Tomy, Wizzard cars, and have found them to be moderately to higher priced, but they are good cars. Instead of paying full price for these, I've found that purchasing "Lots" on e-bay and other sites have proven very profitable. Even if you purchase a junk yard lot, or parts lot, you can usually put together a few good cars from each lot, or even by combining lots. You'll mostly come across lots with chassis, motors and axels, which is great, because you can purchase bodies for dirt cheap, and then you usually have a ton of bodies to choose from, because dealers usually stock a wide variety of bodies. I recently came across a lot of 30 cars on one of the auction sites that ended up selling for just over $5.00 per car, all had working chassis too, so you can see the savings. You may not run into deals like this every day, but even if you purchase a Mega G; Super G+ for $10.00, and add $6.00 to $8.00, or even less, you have a great car for less than $20.00. The AFX Mega G line sells between $25.00 and $35.00 per car!
So, what I suggest, is keep a regular stock of parts like pick-up shoes; springs; brushes; posts, or what ever parts are typically replaced frequently on your favorite brands, because these are usually the parts that are lacking when you purchase a lots.
Si Yu'os Ma'ase Friends!
Rob
Thursday, 4 October 2012
Slot Car Tires? Rubber? Silicone? or Urethane?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Tires can make a world of a difference, but if you're like I was, I had no idea what I should use or why. When I set up my first layout I was so excited to get it up and going, and was racing around the track and de-slotting like crazy, and didn't even care - at least for the first hour.
I didn't even think whether there was anything I could do about all the de-slotting. I then I discovered that cleaning them with a little bit of alcohol made a huge difference, and was off racing again. Then I discovered sanding or truing the tires to give them a nice smooth finish, this made even a bigger difference.
Then I discovered SILICONES! Wow, I was amazed, but not too long after they seemed to have failed. Actually, they really didn't fail at all, it was that I was running cars with both silicone tires and rubber tires on the same track. Silicones are picky, they get jealous if you run rubber tires on their track. If you run silicone tires, then your track has to be squeeky clean in order for them to perform well.
THEN.... I discovered Urethane tires! Wow! They don't mind if the rubber tires run on the same track with them. They are awesome, of course you have to clean then every now and then, but overall if you're running rubber tires also, they work great!
I did discover though, for my HO cars, that silicones work the best even if I'm running rubber tires on the same track. I'm not sure why, but this is my theory: The HO cars are small and very light as compared with 1/32 cars. The rubber residue doesn't rub off on to the track as easily, so you don't get as much rubber build-up. I would think that over time it would build up, but would probably take a lot of racing before you get a layer of rubber on your track.
Sponge Tires - Let me get back to you on these, I'd like to test them out and give you my first-hand experience.
Until next time - Si Yu'os Ma'ase my Friends!
Rob
Tires can make a world of a difference, but if you're like I was, I had no idea what I should use or why. When I set up my first layout I was so excited to get it up and going, and was racing around the track and de-slotting like crazy, and didn't even care - at least for the first hour.
I didn't even think whether there was anything I could do about all the de-slotting. I then I discovered that cleaning them with a little bit of alcohol made a huge difference, and was off racing again. Then I discovered sanding or truing the tires to give them a nice smooth finish, this made even a bigger difference.
Then I discovered SILICONES! Wow, I was amazed, but not too long after they seemed to have failed. Actually, they really didn't fail at all, it was that I was running cars with both silicone tires and rubber tires on the same track. Silicones are picky, they get jealous if you run rubber tires on their track. If you run silicone tires, then your track has to be squeeky clean in order for them to perform well.
THEN.... I discovered Urethane tires! Wow! They don't mind if the rubber tires run on the same track with them. They are awesome, of course you have to clean then every now and then, but overall if you're running rubber tires also, they work great!
I did discover though, for my HO cars, that silicones work the best even if I'm running rubber tires on the same track. I'm not sure why, but this is my theory: The HO cars are small and very light as compared with 1/32 cars. The rubber residue doesn't rub off on to the track as easily, so you don't get as much rubber build-up. I would think that over time it would build up, but would probably take a lot of racing before you get a layer of rubber on your track.
Sponge Tires - Let me get back to you on these, I'd like to test them out and give you my first-hand experience.
Until next time - Si Yu'os Ma'ase my Friends!
Rob
Saturday, 29 September 2012
Slot Car Track Layouts for Pace Car Racing
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Just thought I'd share a few of my more successful pace car layouts for home racing that I've created. These layouts are great for pace car racing. There are no R-1 curves, so car speed can be set at competitive levels. These layouts will also increase your skill level tremendously. It's like in music, particularly drumming. If you practice every day with a metronome, you will not only increase speed, but agility and smoothness also, this is where effectiveness comes in. These pace car tracks will do just that.
What I do is I take one of my more sticky cars, that hug the track like none other. Personally, I like the Slot.it cars for this. I set the pace car settings as fast as possible without deslotting, then I get one of my favorite and more competitive hopped up magless, or even magneted cars, and race against the pace car. Many times the pace car will be set too fast, so I adjust it down to a more competitive level with the car I'm practicing with. As my skill level increases, I increase the pace car speed.gradually.. You'll be amazed at the results when racing in an event; your lap times will increase incredibly! Have fun!
Si Yu'os Ma'ase Magachongs!
Rob
Thursday, 23 August 2012
Tweaking Auto World Slot Cars - Anybody?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
First of all, Please don't be shy to register on this Blog, I need some help here at times too!. I'm just a loan racer out here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.!
This time I have a question. I need help with my AW T-Jets. I really like these cars, especially since they're not glued to the track with strong traction magnets; they can be very fun to race.
I noticed though that some drive much better than others, and some drive really poor. I've tried replacing the tires with silicones, lowering the body height, but nothing seems to work.
Is there something I'm missing here? Is there a way to tune these babies up, or tweak them to run a little better?
Thanks for the input!
Adios!
rob
First of all, Please don't be shy to register on this Blog, I need some help here at times too!. I'm just a loan racer out here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.!
This time I have a question. I need help with my AW T-Jets. I really like these cars, especially since they're not glued to the track with strong traction magnets; they can be very fun to race.
I noticed though that some drive much better than others, and some drive really poor. I've tried replacing the tires with silicones, lowering the body height, but nothing seems to work.
Is there something I'm missing here? Is there a way to tune these babies up, or tweak them to run a little better?
Thanks for the input!
Adios!
rob
Magnet Racing - Vs - Magless Racing
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Here is a topic that I've seen tossed around quite a bit, and would like to share my experiences. First off, I like both magnet and magless racing.
Magnet racing is a good place to start because it doesn't require a lot of racing skill in the beginning. It's also cool to see the cars fly around the track, and challenging to lower your lap times again and again. There is skill needed in racing with magnets, especially if your racing 1/32 scale, you tend to be more careful because of possible damage to the cars, and deslotting of course.
I find magnet racing challenging, in that you not only have to drive skillfully, but tweaking the performance of the cars also can be a challenge. Finding the right tires, tire size, track surface, track cleaning, gear ratios and more. So, there is some skill here that many people don't think about.
Magless racing can be a whole new venture. This is where it gets challenging. Some cars race great out of the box without magnets, but most require some tweaking, and adjusting to get them to stay on the track. First of all, TIRES; sand and clean them first, a lot of the time this will work wonders, even on your stock rubber tires. second, replace them with either silicone, urethane or sponge type, depending on your track surface, racing styles etc.. Check the forums for the different types of tires, and their performance levels, but for starters I think it's safe to use silicone's you'll get great results from these.
Weights - thirdly, add weights. This can get tricky, you'll want to observe how your car drives magless, especially around the curves, and places where it tends to deslot. Depending on the weight distribution of your car, this is where you'll need to off-set it by adding weight. For example:
If your car fish-tails excessively, try adding weight to the rear either to the inside ceiling of the body, or the chassis itself. Experiment to see which placement works better.
If your car seems to deslot quite a bit, you may want to place the weight in the front of the car; same places either chassis or body.
OR, you can place weights on the sides of the cars about where the doors are located, inside of the chassis. Placement all depends on the weight distribution of the car when it's running, and how it deslots.
How Much Weight: I've asked this question quite a bit, and found that some of the pros use no more than the equivalency of a nickle. You don't want too much weight or you'll put a drag on your car, and end up overheating your motor. I use small pieces of sheet lead that I got from Hotslots 1/32. I also monitor the overall weight of the car. I try not to add more than a few grams overall.
Magless Racing: I love magless racing! There's a lot more skill involved here, especially if you have penalties for those that deslot. You'll notice a big difference in the mannerism of your fellow racers when penalties are put in place, especially with magless racing. This is where the fun starts.
So, I hope I've touched on some important aspects of magless racing, and of course this short blog can in no way cover all aspects of magless racing. I suggest checking out our slotting cousins on SCI and the Slot Forum, for more on magless racing.
Adios my Friends!
rob
Here is a topic that I've seen tossed around quite a bit, and would like to share my experiences. First off, I like both magnet and magless racing.
Magnet racing is a good place to start because it doesn't require a lot of racing skill in the beginning. It's also cool to see the cars fly around the track, and challenging to lower your lap times again and again. There is skill needed in racing with magnets, especially if your racing 1/32 scale, you tend to be more careful because of possible damage to the cars, and deslotting of course.
I find magnet racing challenging, in that you not only have to drive skillfully, but tweaking the performance of the cars also can be a challenge. Finding the right tires, tire size, track surface, track cleaning, gear ratios and more. So, there is some skill here that many people don't think about.
Magless racing can be a whole new venture. This is where it gets challenging. Some cars race great out of the box without magnets, but most require some tweaking, and adjusting to get them to stay on the track. First of all, TIRES; sand and clean them first, a lot of the time this will work wonders, even on your stock rubber tires. second, replace them with either silicone, urethane or sponge type, depending on your track surface, racing styles etc.. Check the forums for the different types of tires, and their performance levels, but for starters I think it's safe to use silicone's you'll get great results from these.
Weights - thirdly, add weights. This can get tricky, you'll want to observe how your car drives magless, especially around the curves, and places where it tends to deslot. Depending on the weight distribution of your car, this is where you'll need to off-set it by adding weight. For example:
If your car fish-tails excessively, try adding weight to the rear either to the inside ceiling of the body, or the chassis itself. Experiment to see which placement works better.
If your car seems to deslot quite a bit, you may want to place the weight in the front of the car; same places either chassis or body.
OR, you can place weights on the sides of the cars about where the doors are located, inside of the chassis. Placement all depends on the weight distribution of the car when it's running, and how it deslots.
How Much Weight: I've asked this question quite a bit, and found that some of the pros use no more than the equivalency of a nickle. You don't want too much weight or you'll put a drag on your car, and end up overheating your motor. I use small pieces of sheet lead that I got from Hotslots 1/32. I also monitor the overall weight of the car. I try not to add more than a few grams overall.
Magless Racing: I love magless racing! There's a lot more skill involved here, especially if you have penalties for those that deslot. You'll notice a big difference in the mannerism of your fellow racers when penalties are put in place, especially with magless racing. This is where the fun starts.
So, I hope I've touched on some important aspects of magless racing, and of course this short blog can in no way cover all aspects of magless racing. I suggest checking out our slotting cousins on SCI and the Slot Forum, for more on magless racing.
Adios my Friends!
rob
Monday, 13 August 2012
What is the Best Slot Car Brand? Visited Again
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
For this post I would like to get some input from you more experienced slot car enthusiasts. This question is asked over and over, and we all know that there is no "BEST BRAND"; however, there will be a best brand for you based on your needs and goals.
So let's see if we can all share our experiences and input on what works best for us. Let's see if we can save our fellow novices some time, money and headache here.
For me it was a big decision, because I was on a budget, and wanted to get it right the first time - yeah right... I would have, if I had some guidance.
My Digital Selection:
After much research, I went with Scalextric Sport Digital (SSD), mainly because of its versatility. I liked the idea of being able to race up to 6 cars on a two-lane track, and the ability to pass other cars. I also liked the pace-car features, and the different race games available on the advanced power base (apb). Another feature that caught my eye was the ability to connect to a computer (all major slot car brands have this feature) but what I liked about SSD, was that there are software programs available made especially for SSD. The pace-car feature was also enhanced for variable speed racing i.e. slowing down on the curves and speeding up on the straights.
Okay, this was the BIGGY for me: Scalextric made it easy to convert analog cars (non-digital) to digital by installing a chip. Also, I really like the Slot.it brand cars, and Scalextric makes a chip specially for them, also, not to mention, that Pioneer cars have also been redesigned to accommodate the SSD chips. AND... Most other brands can be chipped with the SSD chip with little modification. The other major digital brands could not accommodate this conversion as easily.
After intensely getting into the SSD world, I found it quite expensive, and this is not just with SSD, the other digital brands can get costly also. I also ended up with a lot of wreckage with the larger 1/32 scale cars, which I did find a solution to: Super Resistant cars (SR). Scalextric makes a very nice series of super resistant cars that are much more durable, less detailed, but very nice. So, when friends or kids raced on my track, I would pull out these cars.
The biggest disappointment was the imperfections and flaws with the digital systems. I've experienced many bad chips, faulty cars, problems with the apb, and computerized software. Scalextric was very accommodating, and replaced the defected units, but this would put a big damper on race nights especially when computer software problems arose.
So, I have converted to analog HO racing for now. I still have my SSD system, and plan on setting it up in the near future when space permits.
My Analog Selection:
As mentioned I now race HO scale, and use the AFX equipment. One of my reasons for going to HO is space, my track size has now doubled, because the cars are half the size.
Also wreckage is very minimal, and the cost is about half of the 1/32 cars. At first I thought, how boring, no lane changing, and NO PACE CARS! arrrg!! and now I have to have 4 lanes, because only one car per lane is allowed.
BUT... When I started getting into the whole HO thing with all the different types of cars, and modifications that could be made, and YES! I CAN HAVE PACE CARS TOO! I fell in love with HO, and now, I'm re-building my entire system. I've purchase the Trackmate Lapcounter/Timer system; driver stations; after market power unit; voltage regulators and more, not to mention the near flawless software programs available.
Okay, I know this post is supposed to be on "What is the Best Brand", but based on my needs, budget and goals, this is how I found the best brand for me.
The AFX systems are very affordable, and well made. The out-of-the-box cars are engineered with precision, and parts are readily available at very reasonable prices. I also like the versatility, well, all HO cars can run on any HO track brand, but even the track pieces... if you have other track brands, and you'd like to combine with AFX, converter track pieces are available, and this goes for most other brands also.
One of the main reasons I went with AFX, is that they've been around since I was a kid, and have much knowledge and experience in the slot car world. In my opinion they, are the leaders for this class i.e. beginner to advanced, in home sets. They can also be be used for commercial purposes also.
So there you have it, these are the BEST SLOT CAR BRANDS AVAILABLE , for me.
So you experts out there... please let us know what works best for you and why.
Maybe we can get input from a few of those that use:
Maxx Track
Custom Routed Track
Tyco
Life Like
Auto World
Or What Ever You Use
Thanks!
Happy Slotting!
rob
For this post I would like to get some input from you more experienced slot car enthusiasts. This question is asked over and over, and we all know that there is no "BEST BRAND"; however, there will be a best brand for you based on your needs and goals.
So let's see if we can all share our experiences and input on what works best for us. Let's see if we can save our fellow novices some time, money and headache here.
For me it was a big decision, because I was on a budget, and wanted to get it right the first time - yeah right... I would have, if I had some guidance.
My Digital Selection:
After much research, I went with Scalextric Sport Digital (SSD), mainly because of its versatility. I liked the idea of being able to race up to 6 cars on a two-lane track, and the ability to pass other cars. I also liked the pace-car features, and the different race games available on the advanced power base (apb). Another feature that caught my eye was the ability to connect to a computer (all major slot car brands have this feature) but what I liked about SSD, was that there are software programs available made especially for SSD. The pace-car feature was also enhanced for variable speed racing i.e. slowing down on the curves and speeding up on the straights.
Okay, this was the BIGGY for me: Scalextric made it easy to convert analog cars (non-digital) to digital by installing a chip. Also, I really like the Slot.it brand cars, and Scalextric makes a chip specially for them, also, not to mention, that Pioneer cars have also been redesigned to accommodate the SSD chips. AND... Most other brands can be chipped with the SSD chip with little modification. The other major digital brands could not accommodate this conversion as easily.
After intensely getting into the SSD world, I found it quite expensive, and this is not just with SSD, the other digital brands can get costly also. I also ended up with a lot of wreckage with the larger 1/32 scale cars, which I did find a solution to: Super Resistant cars (SR). Scalextric makes a very nice series of super resistant cars that are much more durable, less detailed, but very nice. So, when friends or kids raced on my track, I would pull out these cars.
The biggest disappointment was the imperfections and flaws with the digital systems. I've experienced many bad chips, faulty cars, problems with the apb, and computerized software. Scalextric was very accommodating, and replaced the defected units, but this would put a big damper on race nights especially when computer software problems arose.
So, I have converted to analog HO racing for now. I still have my SSD system, and plan on setting it up in the near future when space permits.
My Analog Selection:
As mentioned I now race HO scale, and use the AFX equipment. One of my reasons for going to HO is space, my track size has now doubled, because the cars are half the size.
Also wreckage is very minimal, and the cost is about half of the 1/32 cars. At first I thought, how boring, no lane changing, and NO PACE CARS! arrrg!! and now I have to have 4 lanes, because only one car per lane is allowed.
BUT... When I started getting into the whole HO thing with all the different types of cars, and modifications that could be made, and YES! I CAN HAVE PACE CARS TOO! I fell in love with HO, and now, I'm re-building my entire system. I've purchase the Trackmate Lapcounter/Timer system; driver stations; after market power unit; voltage regulators and more, not to mention the near flawless software programs available.
Okay, I know this post is supposed to be on "What is the Best Brand", but based on my needs, budget and goals, this is how I found the best brand for me.
The AFX systems are very affordable, and well made. The out-of-the-box cars are engineered with precision, and parts are readily available at very reasonable prices. I also like the versatility, well, all HO cars can run on any HO track brand, but even the track pieces... if you have other track brands, and you'd like to combine with AFX, converter track pieces are available, and this goes for most other brands also.
One of the main reasons I went with AFX, is that they've been around since I was a kid, and have much knowledge and experience in the slot car world. In my opinion they, are the leaders for this class i.e. beginner to advanced, in home sets. They can also be be used for commercial purposes also.
So there you have it, these are the BEST SLOT CAR BRANDS AVAILABLE , for me.
So you experts out there... please let us know what works best for you and why.
Maybe we can get input from a few of those that use:
Maxx Track
Custom Routed Track
Tyco
Life Like
Auto World
Or What Ever You Use
Thanks!
Happy Slotting!
rob
Thursday, 2 August 2012
New to Slot Cars? Need a Reputable Dealer? Slot Cars for Beginners
Hafa Adai Slot Car Cousins!
Here it is! The list has been compiled! Reputable Slot Car Dealers!
Log onto www.slotcarbeacon.com and download my free report: "Reputable Slot Car Dealers".
Adios!
rob
Here it is! The list has been compiled! Reputable Slot Car Dealers!
Log onto www.slotcarbeacon.com and download my free report: "Reputable Slot Car Dealers".
Adios!
rob
Digital Slot Car Systems - Leave Much to Desire?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Cousins!
I wanted to address something here in hopes that the digital world will catch wind of this. Just to make things clear from the start, I love digital racing, and my intentions here are constructive in hopes of improving the systems.
My first system after a long break was a digital system. I thought it was so cool to be able to race more than 2 cars on a a 2-lane track, and the fact that you could pass, this seemed so much more realistic. As you may know as of now, I have switched to an HO analog system. I thought long and hard about selling my digital system, but I just don't think I can part with it. It's packed up in the boxes in hopes of pulling it out again.
However, after much frustration with the quirks of the digital system: i.e. cars not working; chips burning up; lane changers going out; glitches with the power base; glitches with software, and finally spoiled race nights, I've decided to go analog, and am having a great time with it, but I miss digital racing!
I'ts now been just over one year since I switched, and am still working on my HO system, rebuilding, upgrading etc. I't seems that there are many of us digital fans that are having continued problems. I continue to read many posts on the forums daily of slotters with the same problems. I really hope the digital manufacturers pay attention to these posts. I for one, am not the only one that has converted to analog for the same reasons; I got my idea from these posts.
My observation: Okay, I'll let the cat out of the bag. My digital system is SSD, oh, that's right, I have photos posted, so you know that already!
This is not just with SSD, but it seems to me that the equipment is a bit "toyish" in quality. Slot cars are in no way toys, unless you buy a toy slot car set, but the ones I'm referring to here are the hobbiest kits for adults.
For comparison example: Take a look at the DS lapcounter products, these are definitely built for quality, and professionalism. Take a look at the appearance, and the durability of the units; pick one up, you'll know immediately that they're built for quality, and operate with precision.
The digital power bases: light wight plastic; low quality input plugs; high operational malfunction rate and have the appearance of a toy.
The concept and intention of the digital systems - Great! Love it! and can't wait until the manufacturers create a product for us true digital hobbiests.
I realize digital racing is very new, and has improved quite a bit in the past few years, so I'm hopeful that it will continue to improve, otherwise I would have sold my digital equipment.
I also realize that as of now, the slot car hobby is still very small as compared to other hobbies, and for the manufacturers to upgrade to these specs is very costly, but maybe if they move a foot at a time, in a few years we'll be much farther along - Think about...
Adios My Friends!
rob
aka Guam Slot Racer
rperyon
I wanted to address something here in hopes that the digital world will catch wind of this. Just to make things clear from the start, I love digital racing, and my intentions here are constructive in hopes of improving the systems.
My first system after a long break was a digital system. I thought it was so cool to be able to race more than 2 cars on a a 2-lane track, and the fact that you could pass, this seemed so much more realistic. As you may know as of now, I have switched to an HO analog system. I thought long and hard about selling my digital system, but I just don't think I can part with it. It's packed up in the boxes in hopes of pulling it out again.
However, after much frustration with the quirks of the digital system: i.e. cars not working; chips burning up; lane changers going out; glitches with the power base; glitches with software, and finally spoiled race nights, I've decided to go analog, and am having a great time with it, but I miss digital racing!
I'ts now been just over one year since I switched, and am still working on my HO system, rebuilding, upgrading etc. I't seems that there are many of us digital fans that are having continued problems. I continue to read many posts on the forums daily of slotters with the same problems. I really hope the digital manufacturers pay attention to these posts. I for one, am not the only one that has converted to analog for the same reasons; I got my idea from these posts.
My observation: Okay, I'll let the cat out of the bag. My digital system is SSD, oh, that's right, I have photos posted, so you know that already!
This is not just with SSD, but it seems to me that the equipment is a bit "toyish" in quality. Slot cars are in no way toys, unless you buy a toy slot car set, but the ones I'm referring to here are the hobbiest kits for adults.
For comparison example: Take a look at the DS lapcounter products, these are definitely built for quality, and professionalism. Take a look at the appearance, and the durability of the units; pick one up, you'll know immediately that they're built for quality, and operate with precision.
The digital power bases: light wight plastic; low quality input plugs; high operational malfunction rate and have the appearance of a toy.
The concept and intention of the digital systems - Great! Love it! and can't wait until the manufacturers create a product for us true digital hobbiests.
I realize digital racing is very new, and has improved quite a bit in the past few years, so I'm hopeful that it will continue to improve, otherwise I would have sold my digital equipment.
I also realize that as of now, the slot car hobby is still very small as compared to other hobbies, and for the manufacturers to upgrade to these specs is very costly, but maybe if they move a foot at a time, in a few years we'll be much farther along - Think about...
Adios My Friends!
rob
aka Guam Slot Racer
rperyon
Wednesday, 1 August 2012
Slot Car Racing Tip - Cars De-Slotting Too Easy?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Cousins!
Got another tip here that will probably help those just starting out. You pros already know this. When I put up my first layout right out of the box, I knew nothing about slot cars at all. I just wanted to get up and start racing. To my amazement I was very frustrated that the cars would de-slot so easily. After a week or so, I discovered that there was a very simple cost effective solution to this.
1. Keep the tires Clean! Hello?! This is just common sense for most people - guess I'm not most people, but I did figure it out, after some time.
2. Clean the track. Wow, this is just too easy. I use rubbing alcohol and a Swiffer duster for the dust.
Just these two things alone made a huge difference, and the fun had just begun from this point.
3. Sand the tires, or what is also referred to as "Truing the tires" meaning make them truly round.
There are many ways to achieve this, but for starters, and simplicity purposes, cost effective too, I use a powered track on my work bench with a stock power supply unit, and controller. I started with about 160 grit sand paper or finer placed on the powered track. Then place the car in the slot with the rear tires on the sand paper. You can tape down the sand paper if needed. I also put a tooth pick or small piece of wood depending on the distance between the chassis and the track under the car about mid-way between the wheels between the chassis and track.
Then gently lower the rear tires on the sand paper while pressing the controller. I start slowly and increase the speed as needed. Mainly, I'm looking to achieve a smooth even surface across the entire width of the tire. You can also use a finer grit depending on the material that your wheels are made of. Silicone tires do not true as easily; however can be trued, but there is a certain process involved. To be visited in a future posting.
4. This is the easy one, and most effective: Change your rear tires to silicone tires. I recommend that if you choose silicone tires, then you should run nothing but silicones on your track. Otherwise you will still get excessive sliding. You must first clean your track well; use alcohol to remove the excess rubber.
Or, if you plan on using both silicone tires and the stock rubber tires, then I would recommend urethane tires, these work will with tracks that have accumulated a rubber build up.
Tip: rubber tires will grip better after the track has been used a bit accumulating a fine layer of rubber.
Well, I hope this simple tip will help some of you, as it did for me.
Adios!
rob
Got another tip here that will probably help those just starting out. You pros already know this. When I put up my first layout right out of the box, I knew nothing about slot cars at all. I just wanted to get up and start racing. To my amazement I was very frustrated that the cars would de-slot so easily. After a week or so, I discovered that there was a very simple cost effective solution to this.
1. Keep the tires Clean! Hello?! This is just common sense for most people - guess I'm not most people, but I did figure it out, after some time.
2. Clean the track. Wow, this is just too easy. I use rubbing alcohol and a Swiffer duster for the dust.
Just these two things alone made a huge difference, and the fun had just begun from this point.
3. Sand the tires, or what is also referred to as "Truing the tires" meaning make them truly round.
There are many ways to achieve this, but for starters, and simplicity purposes, cost effective too, I use a powered track on my work bench with a stock power supply unit, and controller. I started with about 160 grit sand paper or finer placed on the powered track. Then place the car in the slot with the rear tires on the sand paper. You can tape down the sand paper if needed. I also put a tooth pick or small piece of wood depending on the distance between the chassis and the track under the car about mid-way between the wheels between the chassis and track.
Then gently lower the rear tires on the sand paper while pressing the controller. I start slowly and increase the speed as needed. Mainly, I'm looking to achieve a smooth even surface across the entire width of the tire. You can also use a finer grit depending on the material that your wheels are made of. Silicone tires do not true as easily; however can be trued, but there is a certain process involved. To be visited in a future posting.
4. This is the easy one, and most effective: Change your rear tires to silicone tires. I recommend that if you choose silicone tires, then you should run nothing but silicones on your track. Otherwise you will still get excessive sliding. You must first clean your track well; use alcohol to remove the excess rubber.
Or, if you plan on using both silicone tires and the stock rubber tires, then I would recommend urethane tires, these work will with tracks that have accumulated a rubber build up.
Tip: rubber tires will grip better after the track has been used a bit accumulating a fine layer of rubber.
Well, I hope this simple tip will help some of you, as it did for me.
Adios!
rob
Tuesday, 31 July 2012
Reputable Slot Car Dealers - Updated!
Hafa Adai Slot Car Cousins!
I just wanted to thank everyone for checking out my blog, I've noticed there's been quite a few hits. Please sign up, so I can send you you valuable updates first hand. Let's all join together so we can help each other.
I've noticed quite a few of you are looking for Reputable Slot Car Dealers, well you've come to the right place. I've compiled a nice list of proven slot car dealers. Log on to www.slotcarbeacom, and download my free report. It contains an entire list of the best in the industry.
Until next time....
Adios My Friend!
rob
I just wanted to thank everyone for checking out my blog, I've noticed there's been quite a few hits. Please sign up, so I can send you you valuable updates first hand. Let's all join together so we can help each other.
I've noticed quite a few of you are looking for Reputable Slot Car Dealers, well you've come to the right place. I've compiled a nice list of proven slot car dealers. Log on to www.slotcarbeacom, and download my free report. It contains an entire list of the best in the industry.
Until next time....
Adios My Friend!
rob
Monday, 30 July 2012
Pace Cars for HO! Yes, Very Possible
Hafa Adai My Slot Car Cousins!
I just wanted to share with you my work in progress. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my layout, of course I have an HO set-up, but this will work just the same with 1/32 or any other analog set-up.
Converted all stock equipment to after market parts. This is for a 4-lane AFX layout approximately 46 feet - each lane is identical in length.
Here's what I've added:
After market power supply
Parma Controllers
Trackmate Lapcounting/Timing system
Trackmate Driver Stations
Trackmate Call Buttons for each station
Rich D Voltage Regulator for each driver's station
Voltagemeter for each driver station
Bypass switches for each voltage regulator
Okay, I have a very talented nephew that is an electronic engineer, but actually anyone can do this, but he makes things so much easier. Rich Dumas (aka Rich D, on the slot forums) has been very helpful in supplying the schematic for his voltage regulator that he designed, which I now have assembled. Cost was very minimal, less than $10 per voltage regulator.
The plan is to take it one step further from Rich D's design. My work in progress, and when completed will have a bypass switch between the voltage regulator, and the hand controller. (Oh, voltage regulators will be at each driver station.) That way, I can put the car on the track, and set the voltage to max the car's speed without de-slotting. The voltage regulators are already assembled, and I will be wiring up the track within the next few weeks. I will post photos as things progress. So, until next time - Adios!
rob
I just wanted to share with you my work in progress. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my layout, of course I have an HO set-up, but this will work just the same with 1/32 or any other analog set-up.
Converted all stock equipment to after market parts. This is for a 4-lane AFX layout approximately 46 feet - each lane is identical in length.
Here's what I've added:
After market power supply
Parma Controllers
Trackmate Lapcounting/Timing system
Trackmate Driver Stations
Trackmate Call Buttons for each station
Rich D Voltage Regulator for each driver's station
Voltagemeter for each driver station
Bypass switches for each voltage regulator
Okay, I have a very talented nephew that is an electronic engineer, but actually anyone can do this, but he makes things so much easier. Rich Dumas (aka Rich D, on the slot forums) has been very helpful in supplying the schematic for his voltage regulator that he designed, which I now have assembled. Cost was very minimal, less than $10 per voltage regulator.
The plan is to take it one step further from Rich D's design. My work in progress, and when completed will have a bypass switch between the voltage regulator, and the hand controller. (Oh, voltage regulators will be at each driver station.) That way, I can put the car on the track, and set the voltage to max the car's speed without de-slotting. The voltage regulators are already assembled, and I will be wiring up the track within the next few weeks. I will post photos as things progress. So, until next time - Adios!
rob
Simple Racing Rule to Minimize De-Slots & Crashes
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
I'm always looking for better and easier ways to conduct fair races. One of the most frustrating things during a race is also the crashes and de-slotting that goes on. I know several of you out there may have already used this method, but I'd like to visit it again.
As most of us conduct our races with the most laps gets the highest score. This is much better than the first one across the finish line wins. The second method promotes a massive amount of crashes and de-slots.
Assuming you're using the second method, I've added a simple rule that even minimizes this further, and actually produces much better drivers and more competition as time goes on.
Here it is:
When any racer crashes or de-slots, or causes a track call at any time, this racer must place a color coded chip in front of his station representing that driver's lane. At the end of the heat, or race, all the laps/points of each driver are totaled, and each chip represents minus one lap for that driver.
I was really surprised at the awesome results this produced. The races went so much smoother, and after several heats, races really got competitive, exciting and a lot more fun. The skill level of the drivers improved dramatically.
So, if you're having this same problem, give this simple rule a try - you won't be disappointed!
Happy Slotting!
rob
I'm always looking for better and easier ways to conduct fair races. One of the most frustrating things during a race is also the crashes and de-slotting that goes on. I know several of you out there may have already used this method, but I'd like to visit it again.
As most of us conduct our races with the most laps gets the highest score. This is much better than the first one across the finish line wins. The second method promotes a massive amount of crashes and de-slots.
Assuming you're using the second method, I've added a simple rule that even minimizes this further, and actually produces much better drivers and more competition as time goes on.
Here it is:
When any racer crashes or de-slots, or causes a track call at any time, this racer must place a color coded chip in front of his station representing that driver's lane. At the end of the heat, or race, all the laps/points of each driver are totaled, and each chip represents minus one lap for that driver.
I was really surprised at the awesome results this produced. The races went so much smoother, and after several heats, races really got competitive, exciting and a lot more fun. The skill level of the drivers improved dramatically.
So, if you're having this same problem, give this simple rule a try - you won't be disappointed!
Happy Slotting!
rob
Monday, 9 April 2012
Reputable Slot Car Dealers?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
How many times have we stumbled across a website where we just go "WOW! This site has everything and for great prices too!". then...
How many times have we stumbled across a website where we just go "WOW! This site has everything and for great prices too!". then...
Slot Car Racing Secrets
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
There is so much information available on the different aspects of Slot Cars, but little to nothing on the actual racing aspect of Slot Cars. I find this quite strange, being that this is what slot cars appear to be mainly about.
So, I would like to know what are some of the insider secrets to winning some of these big races,
There is so much information available on the different aspects of Slot Cars, but little to nothing on the actual racing aspect of Slot Cars. I find this quite strange, being that this is what slot cars appear to be mainly about.
So, I would like to know what are some of the insider secrets to winning some of these big races,
Thursday, 16 February 2012
More on Digital systems versus Analog systems
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Again I've been seeing a lot more posts on the forums regarding continued problems with the digital systems. As previously posted I too have experienced some of my own, and even on race nights - which was not a good thing. I race both digital and HO analog systems.
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Again I've been seeing a lot more posts on the forums regarding continued problems with the digital systems. As previously posted I too have experienced some of my own, and even on race nights - which was not a good thing. I race both digital and HO analog systems.
Monday, 6 February 2012
Hosting Racing Events in Digital vs Analog
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
I have a situation I'd like to get some input on, I started out racing digital SSD about 3 years ago, and have all the bells and whistles including RMS software. About a year later I got into analog racing in the HO scale.
The situation:
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
I have a situation I'd like to get some input on, I started out racing digital SSD about 3 years ago, and have all the bells and whistles including RMS software. About a year later I got into analog racing in the HO scale.
The situation:
Wednesday, 1 February 2012
What is the best digital slot car system?
Hafa Adai Slot Car Friends!
Well, it all depends on a few things; first of all, are you new to slot cars? or do you already own slot car equipment?
1. If you are new to slot cars, I would check out all the brands that carry digital systems: Ninco; SCX; Scalextric and Carrera, these are the major brands.
Monday, 30 January 2012
Friday, 27 January 2012
Tuesday, 24 January 2012
Hafa Adai Slot Car Freinds! Welcome to the Slot Car Beacon Blog! This is a new blog intended for Slot Car Enthusiasts to share there ideas, methods, experiences, and "whatevers" in the Slot Car world. I will be making posts regularly so please participate and share your ideas too. We'd love to hear from you. Happy Blogging!!
Rob
Rob
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